China Pt1
China Part 1
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China Journal
Wednesday (Boston)
The UA flight left Boston at 8 AM. It';s now 3 AM Boston time and we're over the Sea of Japan in full sunlight. Locally, it's 3 PM. Just a few more hours of flying time.
The first leg of the flight, from Boston to San Francisco was smooth, at least after coming out of the storm over the Northeast. The weather was nice in San Francisco (some fog over the water, but otherwise clear and warm) and the take-off uneventful. I didn't get a view of the Golden Gate Bridge, but I did get a glimpse of the downtown area as we passed over.
This is a long flight. I'd expected to have a chance to get up and walk around, but sleeping aisle passengers deterred me in that effort. A small but tasty lunch and a snack. I had a couple of glasses of wine and went down for a few hours. But with all the flying today, I managed to finish George Gilder's latest book on Foveon. It was only slightly less boring than the flight.
An hour or two out of San Francisco, I caught a brief view of the southernmost Aleutian Islands. Then, nothing but water and clouds. I was hoping to get a look at North Korea or Salaekin Island but too many clouds. My window shade is about the only one up, which I expect is annoying to some. But how many times do you get to fly over Siberia?
Most passengers are Asian. The pilot got a round of applause upon landing. Our aisle-mate woke up and as we were taxiing we talked. She was from Shanghai and was studying in Atlanta. On break, she was visiting her family who she hadn't seen since the beginning of the semester. We wished her good luck and headed towards the exit.
Friday in Shanghai
We got our of the airport smoothly, meeting our driver Peter outside customs. On the drive to the hotel, he was very curious about American basketball. Two other members of the tour, Larry and Katheleen were from Phoenix and the Suns were the topic of the conversation.
We met our tour guide, April, at the hotel and checked in for a night's sleep after walking around the neighborhood. I took a few photos and posted them to the internet before turning in.
Saturday in Shanghai.
Breakfast was interesting. Everything from eggs and bacon to salad, cold cuts and noodles. Lots of smoking at the tables.
On the bus we met Irene, our charming and well spoken local guide.
It was raining pretty steadily. We first went to the Temple. On the way I caught a glimpse of the everyday habits of the residents of Shanghai.
Many people were commuting by bicycle or mopeds.
At the Temple we saw several Buddha statutes and in the courtyard people stood in the rain to make offerings.
The Temple, we were told, was closed down by the communists when they took power, but apparently many of the valuable and historic items were secreted away by monks to prevent them from being destroyed and were now restored to their original positions.
Next, to the old city. We walked through a traditional garden and then went to a restaurant for a Chinese seating lunch. Some of the tour group weren't very accustomed to the exotic food, but I enjoyed it all.
We wandered around the old city for shopping. Irene tried to find me a cigar store; unsuccessfully. Some people came up to me and looked me over. One guy smiled broadly, apparently amused at my appearance, showing a gap in his front teeth. Irene explained that the area was a domestic tourist destination and the curious folks were probably from out in the rural parts of the country, not used to seeing westerners. It used to be that way in the city Irene explained, but now with tourism growing, it was no longer the case. But still, in Shanghai we didn't see all that many westerners.
Later we took a tour of a silk factory, learning how silk worms are harvested and then had the 'opportunity' to buy some goods. We were actually a captive audience. This was our first experience with the Chinese hard sell. The doors close behind you and salespeople attach to each visitor and point out how "very beautiful" each item is. At one point, a salesman grabbed a tie I was looking at and exclaimed "100% silk" turning it over to show me the English label which said 100% polyester. Very annoying. But Mary bought a silk comforter. At least we think it was silk.
After dinner in the hotel, we were back on the bus for the ride to an acrobatics show. The show was put on downtown in a theater. The performers were very young and completed sets, which included plate spinning, juggling, human pyramids, etc. The finale involved motorbikes inside a giant round cage. Scary.
On the way to the hotel we drove along the Bund which was lit up. Great lights and cityscape. Shanghai is bubbling with electricity, literally and figuratively. There's new building everywhere.
Saturday; Leaving Shanghai, arriving in Yichang.
We checked out early and got back on the bus for a ride to the Bund. Lots of photos. Great city views.
Another tour of a factory, this one a silk rug weaving factory. After realizing that I wasn't going to buy anything I had a nice conversation with a salesman about philosophy and China and life in the West.
Then to the airport -not the International airport, but a domestic airport. Flight was on Shanghai Airlines. I'm not a happy flyer but the plane was brand new and the crew was professional and efficient. I did get a little nervous when I though I smelled something burning in the cabin. Eventually I realized that it was the smell of incense, pleasant when I realized, happily, that the plane wasn't on fire.
A little over an hour to the city of Yichang. Baggage came eventually and we boarded a bus for the city.
Flying in I could see rice paddies and it appeared to be a rural area. On the road from the airport I saw pigs and cows along the roads.
After a half an hour or so we came to the town of Yichang. The city was urban but somewhat squalid. Very different from Shanghai. We toured a depressing museum of artifacts dug up at the site where the river would flood as part of the three gorges project. Not a great museum.
Then a walk in a park on the banks of the Yangtze. People were friendly but very curious.
It was a good view of everyday life as couples smooched on benches and on the lawns, older groups sang and played traditional instruments and teenagers gathered.
Some folks were swimming in the Yangtze and since boats were tied up nearby, commerce went on as items were loaded and unloaded at the docks. Most of it was carried on double shoulder bamboo baskets.
We had dinner at a restaurant in town. Probably fairly fancy for the town. Duck, pork, chicken dumplings, fish and Chinese beer. All good (but lots of bones in the fish.) The plan was to travel by bus to the smaller town of Shashi, just to the south, to board the boat for the beginning of the river cruise.
We stopped at what was described as a supermarket, mostly beverages and local fast foods and I picked up a couple of cans of Bud and a couple of bottles of Chinese wine: Great Wall brand, one red, one white.
I fell asleep on the bus. Arriving in Shashi, we learned that the boat that we were expecting to board was late so we waited in a dark, dismal area along the dock. Not many people were out. Hot, humid, stale air. There was a sidewalk mahjongg game going on nearby in the dark town, but that was the only sign of life.
We were told to watch our belongings and not to let anyone 'help' with our bags. April explained that unlike the US, crime is worse in the rural areas than it is in the cities. More desperation and poverty, she explained. In any case everything worked out as the boat eventually arrived.
Finally on board the Princess Eileen. Small room but comfortable and got to use the bathroom. Whew. Then out on deck for a cigar and a Chinese Budweiser. Very peaceful. Dark, quiet. Occasional signal lights from passing boats but otherwise very still. There was a slight breeze from the movement of the boat through the humid air. In more ways than one, I felt very far away from everyday concerns.





















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